At the age of 49 I’ve decided to take on a new sport, surfing. I’m enjoying it so far, but it’s hard work. My goal is by the time I’m 50, in 9 months, is to become a somewhat proficient if not an adequate beginner surfer. I joined a local women’s surf club called The Wahini-Kai Surf Club https://www.wahinekai.org/ and I’ve met up with them twice so far. What I’m enjoying the most is seeing the passion that each of these ladies have for surfing, I want that, I want to be able to only think about catching the next wave and enjoying the exhilaration that comes with it. So I’m immersing myself “Andree” style by learning everything I can about surfing and most importantly getting in the water and making mistakes. In my 5 times of surfing so far, I’ve been popped in the face, rode a wave backwards (a few times) and fell countless times trying to get up. I’m sure this will continue over the months to come, my body is sore, my neck is sore, but I’m going to keep trying. My goal is 2x per week I hope to exceed that goal. My other goal will be to be logging my surfing experience through my website with what the surf was like, how I felt, who I surfed with (last names omitted) and how I’m planning on tackling my obstacles.
San Onofre – Old Man’s Beach Sunset
Location: San Onfore Old Man’s Beach –
Time in the water: 1 hour 15 min
Waves surfed: 2 (if that)
The surf was 1-2ft poor to fair. Surfed during high tide and it was windy and choppy
Surfed with: Julie, Kassy, Annie, Heidi and Ted – Most were from the Wahini-Kai Surf Club
*Reading: A Girl’s Guide to Surfing
Instructional video of the day:
As this is only my 5th attempt at surfing so I have to cut myself some slack. I worked hard out there and over the course of an hour and 15, I had paddled 4150 meters which equals 2.579 miles, it was a lot of paddling and trying to get past the breaks which tired me out. When I surfed on Saturday last week at Bolsa Chica I felt very seasick. This time I had advice from Annie to keep my eyes on the horizon. So I did, I felt slightly sick towards the end but that could have been from fatigue. Next time I think I’ll take Dramamine, I haven’t been prone to seasickness in the past, so that’s disappointing.
It was a beautiful sunset.
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