Location: San Onofre Trail 4
Time in the water: 40 min
Waves Surfed: 2
evening session was pretty windy and the current was moving south with the wind. At first I started to tackle the waves by doing turtle rolls, this took a lot of time to get through the white wash and after a time I began to tire. After that I took the white wash straight on with an upward cobra position, it worked most of the time and I managed to get back out there faster than before. The current moved me down quite a bit and I was paddling a lot so I didn’t stay out too long. Overall, I was pleased with this surf session, 2 times up and then out. There was a beautiful sunset afterwards.
My goal in the beginning was to surf 2x per week, though last Saturday I tweaked my neck, on Sunday I went to Urgent care because the pain was so bad. Doctor sent me on my way with muscle relaxers which helped for a day or two until the healing started and on Friday I went to a chiropractor, he did some adjustments which also helped me get back out in the water. Lesson – Stretch before surfing, yoga is a must.
