Location: Jalama Beach – Lompoc, CA
Time in the water: 40 min + another 30 in the evening
Waves surfed: 1
Yesterday was a rough day for me surfing. Conditions I thought were beautiful, very still, glassy water, though foggy, there wasn’t any wind which was a plus. The waves were 1-2 feet.
I surfed twice yesterday, once in the morning, and once in the evening. The morning I caught 1 wave, it was small, but I considered that a victory as I stood up. Though looking at the review coverage that my husband was filming, I really didn’t POP UP like I should have.. I slowly got up and on one knee first. This isn’t how it’s supposed to be. As I got up, I did recognize that I had a little bit more time to think about it, therefore I managed to get up. The pictures will show what I’m talking about. I can’t consider this a success at all because I didn’t do it right.
My evening session bore no sweet fruit yet again, the water was glassy, no wind at all, you’d think for me that this would be a prime time to surf, and maybe it was for all of the other people out in the water, however each wave I’d try to catch I was either too far up on my board and I’d nose dive or, I’d be at the top of the wave and look down and see a huge drop (maybe 4 feet, or maybe it was only 2??) and panic, the waves were beautiful and I noticed everyone with shorter boards going in at an angle, not head on like I was with my long board. One guy out there gave some advice to stay further back on my board, the advice must not have sank in as I took one great nosedive and as I came up I got nailed in the face by my own board. I have a great shiner to show for it (1st full day of a vacation of 12 days). I came right in, heeded the advice from my husband to get back further on my board, same advice as the other guy in the water) and I tried again, but I lost my desire to surf for the night, tried two or three times then gave up. I’ll try to get back out there today, because I’m a glutton for punishment, maybe I’ll get a matching black on on my left side??
I’m posting all of my mishaps below so I can get some constructive criticism, I’ll take what I can get. I read in The Girls Guide to Surfing that there will be days that aren’t successful, where you want to quit, and that you don’t catch one wave.. yesterday was one of those days.