Location: Bolsa Chica

Waves Caught: 3 or 4

time in the water:  47 Min

it was an overall successful day, the water was warmer, the current wasn’t too bad.  but the white water was a struggle to get past, the waves kept coming and beating up my friend so she cut out early.  I stayed out for a bit longer and enjoyed sitting on my board and watching some commotion to the north of me, apparently there was a big argument between surfers, yelling, screaming and name calling.  I don’t know how it transpired, I just know that there was a fight in the water, I can only assume that someone got cut off and they were pretty upset.  Glad I wasn’t a part of it.  Tower 25 seems like there’s lots of beginners there and in my opinion, nothing’s that important to fight over, especially on a Sunday morning with beautiful clear skies and crystal clear water beneath you.  Live and let live.











Location: Old Man’s Beach – San Onofre

Waves caught: 3 – or 2.5



What an amazingly beautiful sunset down at Old Man’s Beach.  I met with Julie, Kassy, Annie and I think there were a few others from the Wahine Kai Surf Club there.  My husband came along and strummed his guitar on the beach while I surfed.

my husband strumming his guitar

The weather was beautiful, the waves were perfect and I caught a few.  I’d say that any day without a black eye or busted up jaw is a good one on the water.  I really didn’t want to come in but it was getting dark enough to see only silhouettes surfing towards shore, what a site. I wish I had my camera out there with me, I would have had the most beautiful shots.  I wore my 4/3 suit and that was way too hot.  I need to buy a 3/2 , I’ll do that soon enough.


getting through the white wash